After a covid induced break of 3 years, the Harriers were back for more sleep deprived running on the West Highland Way. Dawn had not yet broken on Saturday 14th May when 17 Harriers creaked into motion and set off to their designated pick-up points around EK (or, if you were lucky enough to get a lie in, Milngavie). The pick-ups went like clockwork with plenty of wind-ups from the off. “Forgetfulness” was the word of the day with first Geo rushing home for his forgotten spectacle case (which he had not forgotten, he had just forgotten that he had in fact brought it) and then Chris forgetting his phone, requiring an early morning wake up call for the residents of Greenhills as Eddie reversed the bus up a side-street, complete with reversing beeper, to return to Chris’ car at Morrissons car park. Then we were off to Milngavie.
The Start
The minibus arrived at Milngavie station just after 5am where we met Kevin Farmer who had been brought along to the start by his dad. A remarkably efficient team photo shoot was quickly completed, and we were ready for the off. The point was made that we needed everyone to run to their full potential as the experience of our most recent WHW Relays was that we would be close to the cut-off time (about 8pm) for dinner at the hotel in Fort William if we ran our typical time of around 15 hours, particularly if we had any sort of problems on route (not that we ever do!). The chances of a pre-dinner swim were slim.
Leg 1 Milngavie to Carbeth
The presidential cavalcade was led off by Anne McLellan, with security provided by Chris McCarron and Richard Stark. We almost lost Kevin Farmer at this point as he had run through the start tunnel to get some photos and we thought he was doing the complete leg so were not waiting for him before setting off. Fortunately, we were slow to get away and Kevin appeared in time to get on the bus. The changeover point was remarkably free of midges making the short wait a pleasant chance to get some air and wake up properly. Soon, Anne ran into view in some style to complete the leg in 42:58.
Leg 2 Carbeth to Dumgoyne
New member Julia Pechlof was one of three WHW Relay first timers and was full of the usual trepidation that accompanies anyone’s first run on the WHW, particularly at a time of the morning when normal people would still be asleep! After some words of reassurance that the leg was straightforward, Julia set off enthusiastically with one of the most experienced Harriers, Gerry Mullen, leading from behind. This is a good running leg as the latter part of the route follows the path of an old railway and allows a strong finish. Conditions were perfect and Julia was full of running when she sprinted towards the changeover at the Beechtree Inn, Dumgoyne, finishing in an excellent 29:08.
Leg 3 Dumgoyne to Drymen
Geo Ferguson was picked for this leg which, like a football match, is a game of two halves. The first half is characterised by a continuation of the flat railway path but with multiple gates at farm track crossings. The second half has the most tarmac of any leg and also is a bit of a roller coaster with some severe undulations which come as a shock if the initial pace has been fast. The leg finishes climbing through a large, grassy field to the changeover beside the main road. Alan Derrick accompanied Geo on this leg and acted as chief gate opener. A new pair of gates protecting a construction site access track briefly flumuxed us (pull rather than push) and cost us minutes of psychological delay. Geo maintained a very strong non-conversational pace (i.e. threshold!) to the handover, finishing in 42:56.
Leg 4 Drymen to Balmaha (Conic Hill)
At just over 14km, this is the second longest leg of the day and is always assigned to one of our faster runners. Guest Harrier Richard Stark came with a reputation for being a strong hill runner and was the automatic choice for this leg. Richard is well experienced on the WHW but this was his first Calderglen Harriers WHW relay, so he is counted as one of our first timers. The route starts off with very good running on gently ascending forest tracks but becomes quite severe when Conic Hill proper is reached. However, the greatest risks come on the descent which is eroded and contains multiple steps which are actually more dangerous for a runner than not having steps (were we not always told as a child not to run on those stairs!). Out of necessity, the fastest runners generally run unaccompanied, and this brings with it some worry. However, the worry was not in evidence as we waited in Balmaha car park, with all sorts of mini-adventures taking place, including certain high ranking female committee members blagging free cups of coffee from the nearby hotel, an alternative field events programme involving various throws, mini-bmx cycling and the photographing of
an exclusive nature article to rival anything that National Geographic has published. Lo and behold, there were still no midges! Before we knew it, Richard came flying off the path and into the car park in a time of 58:25, some minutes ahead of our average time in recent years.
Leg 5 Balmaha to Milarrochy
Michael Mullen was assigned this tricky little blast which has a killer of a hill shortly after the start but finishes relatively flat and fast, albeit on a shingle beach. Julia and Kevin went along for company on this scenic little leg. With about 30 years of Harriers WHW Relays, there are few if any good skimmers left on the beach, however, eagle-eye Kenny managed to find a few and gave a fascinating lecture on the theory of stone skimming to an enthralled audience of two. Meanwhile, Michael completed the leg in 16:48.
Leg 6 Milarrochy to Rowardennan
The next leg is a tough one. It may only be around 10k but this one has some serious undulations as it follows close to the shore of Loch Lomond. Eddie Reid is not back to full health and fitness, but he is strong and knows this leg well, making him a good choice to pace this leg sensibly. It is all too easy to blow up early on and crawl through the second half, adding 10 or 15 minutes on to this leg. Meanwhile, at Rowardennan car park, more Harrier blagging was in evidence as we distracted the park ranger sufficiently for him not to charge us for parking the minibus (across three parking spaces no less). Actually, the ranger is a runner so he was more than happy to talk to us and let us sit there until Eddie came in, even though the car park was getting pretty busy as we waited. Eddie arrived in good form in a time of 58:33, a very good time for that leg.
Leg 7 Rowardennan to Inverarnan (The Lochside)
Chris McCarron had spoken to me a few weeks ago, saying he was the man for the job. He needn’t have bothered as I already had him mentally pencilled in for this, the longest leg at about 22km, as the youngest/fastest participating and as many of the rest of us faster ones having sickened (or injured) ourselves on this barely runnable obstacle course (at least the second half) many times over the years. The drive around to the changeover at Beinglas Farm, Inverarnan at the top of the loch is the longest drive between legs and can be tight for time as we also have to walk in for 10 minutes to the changeover. However, there are refreshments for sale at the farm which provides some recovery from the drive. Find of the day went to Gerry Mullen who discovered a beautiful stick which topped off Gerry’s man about the glen look to perfection. I pity the shepherd who is now looking for his stick, having left it lying whilst he attended to a ewe. This leg also generates concern as accidents do happen on the difficult terrain. We were getting particularly concerned for Chris as the expected finish time had long passed. Finally, we got the shout that Chris was in sight, and he finished in 2:23:36, promptly throwing himself to the ground and declaring that it was “like the Somme” out there. Perhaps a bit of an exaggeration.
Leg 8 Inverarnan to Crianlarich
This is an all up-hill leg, so who better than a man of the hills, Gordon McInally. It is a sign of Gordon’s impressive form that nobody wanted to accompany him on this leg. At least, that is what he asked me to write. Parts of the path have changed in recent years on this leg, generally for the better, particularly with the farm near the end now being vacated and hence the quagmire of cow poo has also gone. The changeover for this leg is a 1km or so uphill from the roadside parking and provides a good warm-up for the timing team and the runners for the next leg. Whilst that party trekked to the changeover, a diplomatic party headed to the café at Crianlarich Station to break the news to the proprietor that Russell was not with us and hence their stocks of bacon and rolls would most likely go to waste. The financial crisis was partly mitigated by that team gorging themselves on a bacon roll or two. The team at the top of the hill had a long chat with a couple from Surrey who were walking the WHW in stages. The husband was the president of their running club and they were both runners and were extremely interested in what we were up to. Meanwhile Gordon appeared in fine form and handed over in 58:10.
Leg 9 Crianlarich to Ewich
Billy Buchanan was assigned this leg and was the most senior Harrier participating. Billy was accompanied by his long shadow, Michael Mullen, on this tough leg. A massive campaign of tree clearance following the devastation of the winter storms has changed the feel of this leg. It used to be an enclosed, dark and sheltered leg. Now it is very open. The initial tough climb is followed by a significant loss of height but always on difficult underfoot conditions. The changeover in a layby at the side of the main road is a busy place to wait and is not the most scenic. But at least it was a very short wait for Billy who finished in 27:06.
Leg 10 Ewich to Tyndrum
The next leg starts off relatively flat and potentially fast but the latter part on the approach to Tyndrum is very undulating and rewards a cautious start. The experience of Gerry Mullen was employed to good effect on this leg. Whilst waiting, Tyndrum provided the first major refreshment/comfort break of the day with the Green Wellie Shop and Brodies General Store providing everything anyone could want eight and half hours into the run! Gerry arrived at this relative metropolis in a time of 32:47.
Leg 11 Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy
This leg combines spectacular scenery with relatively good running conditions and therefore suits a strong runner to cover its 11km plus. Frances Ferguson was selected for this leg, accompanied by Richard Stark. By this time, the weather was also spectacular (its all relative to the Scottish norm of course). Bridge of Orchy provides the first opportunity for those in need of some blood thinners to partake, courtesy of the Bridge of Orchy Hotel bar. At least one did partake. Alternatively, for those in need of a blood cooler, the River Orchy is shallow and fast flowing. Picture a jacuzzi without warmth or comfort (or see the photo of Gerry Mullen if that is unimaginable). Before long, Frances flew into view from the Bridge of Orchy station down the final straight to the changeover at the roadside in an excellent time of 54:45.
Leg 12 Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran
This so-called Jelly Bean Hill isn’t far but 10 or 15 minutes can be lost if the assigned runner is not able to run all the way up. Alan Derrick assigned himself to this hill as a warm-up for the bigger hill on his main leg later on. By this time, the Harriers were well into the partaking of refreshments mode and where could be finer to partake than at the hotel at Inveroran in the sun. Also, the opportunity was taken to show Kevin Farmer where not to go (the Eddie Trail, nothing to do with whirlpools) on the next leg. I had a pretty smooth run up and a controlled but swift descent to finish in 19:18.
Leg 13 Inveroran to Black Rock Cottage (Rannoch Moor)
This 14km leg is a wonderfully bleak and isolated leg across the moor. It’s about 2/3 climbing and 1/3 descending. The old military road is rocky and tricky underfoot so maximum concentration is required. Kevin Farmer was on this leg. The changeover on the Glen Coe ski centre access road provides a long view back to the high point of the leg where the eagle eyed can often spot the incoming runner from a long way out. After several false alerts Kevin’s characteristic running style was spotted with the aid of binoculars and we tracked his progress down the meandering track, overtaking several groups of walkers. Kevin cruised into the heavily populated changeover in a great time of 1:11:17.
Leg 14 Black Rock Cottage to Kingshouse
This is a downhill, very short leg. Kenny Leinster has been suffering from a succession of injuries and nominated himself for this leg, which seemed sensible. A half bus load of Harriers bought into the Kenny injury propaganda and set off to keep Kenny company on what would be an easy jog alongside a man lucky to be able to even walk. But there was a miracle within us and Kenny took off like a bat out hell, dropping everyone within 100m. I don’t recall the bus ever having to stop to pick up anyone part way through a leg, particularly on this, the shortest of all legs, but before we hit the main road, we had already picked up 3 or 4 of Kenny’s escort who had been blown away by the pace. Kenny finished in 7:48!
Leg 15 Kingshouse to Devil’s Staircase
Jacqueline Balmer was the third of our first timers and had had a long wait to see some WHW action. This leg is spectacular without being too tricky underfoot. However, although the path runs more or less parallel to the main road, it is hillier than it looks. Jacqueline was accompanied by a big pack, some of whom had carried on after the Leinster Mile. The pack included Eddie, Geo, Anne, Julia, Gerry, Billy, Richard and Michael. Billy was an early casualty, having a fall but soon picked himself up and caught up with the pack. Jacqueline finished looking very comfortable in 32:54.
Leg 16 Devil’s Staircase to Kinlochleven
This leg is about 9km and has a big climb to start followed by an initially undulating descent and a final terminal drop. Alan Derrick picked himself for this leg. The climb is rocky and increasingly steep but once over the top, the descent is fast but tricky underfoot, requiring maximum concentration and common sense, knowing in particular when to put the brakes on. There is also a bit of a climb part way down the descent which is good to keep in mind as time can be lost on that climb if the bolt has been shot too early! The final descent into Kinlockleven is on a wide gravel forest road which has some hairpin bends which really need to be taken with care. I was a bit weary on the ascent, having maybe done too much earlier in the day off limited training but was very happy with the descent and got a real buzz from the pace (and forgot what the haematology consultant told me about not doing any dangerous activities where I could fall and bleed due to the anti-coag medication. Oh well, it was a day of forgetfulness). I finished in 47:34.
Leg 17 Kinlochleven to Lundavra
This is another treacherous leg due to a combination of a severe initial climb and a very difficult surface on the old military road (essentially like a rocky riverbed) on top. Our most experienced runner of all was given this leg, Davy Watt. The drive around to the changeover is also difficult and travel sickness inducing. However, we made it before Davy. Due to the need to get to the hotel before dinner, there was talk of setting Jim, the next runner off before Davy arrived, however, by this time I was reasonably confident that we would be OK. So we waited. Then Davy appeared, moving well. However, on closer inspection, there was blood dripping from his knees. Not a good sign. The battered Davy Watt finished in 1:08:19. The top road had been heavily flooded in places (knee deep) and running into the sun approaching one burn crossing, Davy had been blinded by the sun and went head first into the burn, fully submerged, landing on rocks. The cut knees were not the only injuries as Davy had instinctively rolled as he fell and had massive bruising on his back and shoulder. Nothing stops Davy though.
Leg 18 Lundavra to Glen Nevis
Jim Holmes had the longest wait of the day for this leg, another of those that starts with a climb but ends with a long and fast descent on forest roads. Again, there has been significant tree felling in recent years completely changing the look of this leg. We had made good time on the drive back to Glen Nevis and met up briefly with former Harrier, Jimmy Stewart and his wife, whilst waiting for Jim. The day was finishing as it had started too, i.e. no midges! We had started one group on the run to the finish line in Fort William ahead of Jim’s arrival as there were some tired and sore Harriers by this time and we needed to finish asap for dinner. However, Jim soon appeared at speed in a time of 51:12, another great time.
Leg 19 Glen Nevis to Fort William
The leg is just over 1km and is a group run for all that can still run. The advance pack had already set off and the remainder started when Jim finished, covering that final uncomfortable section of pavement in about 7 minutes. The final time for the full 96 mile run was an excellent 14:30:24, a time well on par with our recent runs, bringing us in 15 minutes ahead of when we though dinner would be! Finishing photo done, we headed for the Ben Nevis Hotel.
The Wedding
By a stroke of good luck, the hotel was not ready for us as a large wedding party were still occupying the dining room when we arrived and were in no hurry to leave. So some of us did have time for a swim and jacuzzi whilst others used the time to smarten themselves up. Those who used the time to get to the bar were out of luck as the bar was 6 deep with wedding guests and the staff were struggling in a bit of a volatile atmosphere. In the end we retired to the calm of the dining room and had more than enough time for dinner and even provided the waitress service to give the staff a help out and to get us fed! The food was worth the wait (at least mine was).
The Sunday Cruise
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| Competitive.... me, the frisbee was in! |
The prospect of a heat wave meant that Sunday would be a beach day at Corran Narrows, 6 or 7 miles down the road from Fort William. After a hearty breakfast we stocked up in Morrisons for a picnic and headed for the Corran Ferry. The heat wave did not materialise but thinking positive, we boarded the ferry and crossed the Narrows. On the other side, the sports committee quickly went to work identifying a beachside arena to host a multi-sport competition. Sports equipment not seen since Balmaha was soon repurposed into three different events; a kind of frisbee archery, a kind of whizzee bomb hammer throw and a kind of pass the mini-American Football. There was also talk of pole vault but that would have meant prizing the Beinglas stick out of Gerry’s hands, so was a non-starter. Three teams were picked by chief referee Billy and the games commenced. After 10 minutes of activity, the heavens opened, and play was abandoned. However, there is no doubt that Team “B”, Anne’s Beauties were the winners, having scored heavily on the whizzee bomb throw for distance. So that’s settled. We did our best to shelter from the rain until the ferry returned and then we were off, back down the road after another memorable WHW Relay.
As always, these things just don’t happen on their own, so thanks to Frances for organising the hotel and gathering names and payments for the weekend, to the drivers, Eddie, Jim and even Kenny, also to Jim for once again providing the sports equipment, to Billy for trawling his imagination to put on the sports day and of course, to all the runners who applied themselves so enthusiastically and got us to the finish in time for dinner.
More photos in
this album. On the subject of albums, Gerry Mullen's haunting compilation "Ballads of Balmaha:- Whining on the Way" is due for release later in June on CD, vinyl and compact cassette. Watch this space for further details.
Alan
