Don't Mention the F Word!

Milngavie train station…..the beginning of the West Highland Way Race. I looked it up on Trainline. 4hrs 12 minutes, 15 quid! Buffet car, flushing toilets, it’s got the lot. Why travel any other way?

It’s the challenge, they tell you. I love a challenge. My challenges after the race were walking and swallowing (to be explained).

We had a plan back in November. Davie Searil, Ruth Kelly and myself. Let’s do the WHW race. It’s a challenge. This year entry was open for a month to allow people time to enter and entries limited to 265 folk. I think (you’ll note there’s not a lot of actual research gone into this report) about 400 ish people entered and it went to a ballot. 4 weeks later we were in!

We had a bit of a plan. Davie who had run the race twice before would run his own race. Ruth and I decided that we would run together from start to finish and that was the plan.

Ian Rae, another Harrier and legend of the race was also running this year and joined us for the occasional training run. 

Davie’s team was led by the long suffering Alison, Gerry Mullen, and Gordon McInally.

I was to be supported by my friend Elaine Muirhead, her husband Ramsay, Michael Mullen, and a veteran 3 times WHW finisher (in 20 hours no less) Davie Gray.

Ruth’s husband Kevin stepped up to the plate for her team, and was joined by Hugh and Liz Simpson, and that seasoned long distance runner George Stewart😊.

Ian had his usual dream team in the form of Angela, Frances and Geo. 

I have to mention the other member of Ruth’s team, Noushka, who contributed to the evening by eating Kevin’s sandwiches shortly before they left for the race…bad Noush😊

Training had gone ok and we got to the start line in reasonable shape. I was on antibiotics, Davie had a gammy knee and Ruth a stomach bug!

The race starts at 1am on a Saturday morning when most folk are asleep or heading to bed.  After registration around 11pm, we did what we knew. We caught last orders in the nearest pub. They were welcoming but not sure they were staffed for the sheer demand placed on the Hot Chocolate machine. 

The pre race briefing at 1230hrs was full of useful stuff. Like, don’t take Ibuprofen, or you will die……and will also be withdrawn from the race. The WHW race medical team take no prisoners!

I wasn’t worried about that. I had all the Paracetamol Tesco would sell me without alerting the authorities.

Milngavie to Balmaha    19 miles  Cut off 6am  Arrived 5:15 am (171st)

We started at 1am. Ruth and I had a plan to get to the first checkpoint in Balmaha at around 515hrs. The cut off was 6am. This would give us a nice steady start and not use up too much energy. Our respective crews insisted we pace ourselves correctly and not get there too early as they were planning a wee kip and a bacon roll from the Oak Tree Inn.

Having wished Ian the best of luck, the 3 amigos set off together. It was clear from very early on that something was wrong with Ruth (she had stopped talking). She was suffering badly from stomach pain and nausea. We decided to let Davie go and run his own race. Despite her obvious distress, we got to Balmaha at 515, right on time. Elaine and Ramsay had the coffee ready for me and I managed a wee porridge pot and a croissant. Ruth unfortunately was unable to contemplate food due to the nausea that was engulfing her. 

But we were19 miles in and on schedule.

Balmaha to Rowardennan  27 miles    Arrived 7:30 am  (184th)

 Sadly, the next 7 miles were to be Ruth’s last in the race. Her symptoms became so severe that she was forced to withdraw at Rowardenan. This was obviously a major disappointment to her. It was however the gutsiest (no pun intended) marathon I have had the privilege of watching. She will be back.

I was faced with the prospect of running the rest of the way on my own. So I ate some stuff (you don’t really want to know what I ate at every stop, do you?), gave Ruth a big hug, stole some of her food and her Garmin, and ran to Beinglass farm.

Rowardennan to Beinglass Farm 42miles Cut off 1pm, Arrived 11:50am (168th) 

It’s about a 15 mile run over some of the trickier parts of the WHW. It takes in the Lochside. That’s the part usually given to one of the senior Harriers during the club relay, as it’s a very tough run, walk, crawl sort of route.

I think I left Rowardenan just before 8am, so I had around 5 hours to get to Beinglass. 

It’s a tough wee section but I managed it ok, and got to the checkpoint with about an hour to spare. Davie was having his toes lubed as I arrived in (that was my job in 2015 when I supported him…..ah, happy days!

I had caught up about 25 minutes or so on him but it was obvious he was struggling with his knee. My team of Elaine and Ramsay were amazing looking back. They were so positive about how I was doing (mostly lies) and encouraging for the next section. They always seemed to have the coffee ready and something ready to eat . Eating’s a chore for me at these things. Real ultrarunners seemed to be able to eat anything and run. I struggle big time. Had all sorts of stuff with me including cheese sandwiches, pot noodles, and my own personal favourite, Heinz tomato soup…..always a stalwart when I’m hungover or off my food. If any of you are thinking of doing and ultra, I’d like to give you a bit of advice. Don’t take food that you really like with you, cos there’s nothing better for putting you off it forever, than eating on the run.

I was ready to go before Davie. I was trying to keep my sit down times to a minimum because you begin to enjoy the rest and the chat. I got up to start walking out of the checkpoint and Davie hurriedly caught up with me. I walked for about 500 yards out of Beinglass. I have seen, too often, folk eat something and then start immediately running only to have to stop suddenly lose their lunch….and at that point you’re hoping it’s up the way.

We started running but quickly realised that Davie was struggling. The “ouch” on his first couple of steps and the grimace was enough to tell me it was something he wouldn’t be able to run off. We wished each other well and I ran on without him.  I let him keep his watch.

Beinglass Farm to Auchtertyre  51miles  Cut off 4:30pm Arrived 2:35pm (156th)

The next 9 miles or so to Auchtertyre were fairly straightforward and I began to get into a nice running rhythm (who am I kidding, you’ve see me run). Paracetamol was a big part of my WHW plan, and although I wasn’t sore anywhere I didn’t miss a dose. I was moving well. I was aware at this point that the weather was changing a wee bit and the wind was getting up. I found myself overtaking lots of folk too. It’s different from a 10k in that I discovered that as soon as I saw someone ahead of me, no matter how far ahead, overtaking them was only a matter of time. As I rarely overtake anyone in shorter races, I was rather enjoying this feeling.

As I got closer to my next meeting with the crew at Auchtertyre I  started to think about the next leg; the 9 mile stage to Bridge of Orchy. I would have the benefit of being able to run with support from this point. My first support runner was a guy called Davie Gray. He’s a pal of Gerry's and an amazing guy. He’s run the WHW 3 times (I think his best time is 20 hours). When I met him for the first time he told me I would be the second person he had supported in this race. I asked him how the first had got on. With a straight face he replied “she won”.

I spent a lot of time gently explaining the possibility that I might not make the podium…..and he should not make plans for the Saturday night.

I ran the long drag up the road to the checkpoint in what felt like a force 10 headwind. Ramsay met me and made sure I went straight to the electronic timer, and also to get weighed. 51 miles and hadn’t lost an ounce. I was asked by the marshall  how I felt. I began to worry that they were out to get me and I suspect I was a wee bit defensive and vague in my response. Her follow up question to me was What’s the name of the Prime Minister? Not sure if you you remember June, but I’m don’t think the country had a definite answer to that never mind a man who had been up since 8am on Friday!

My team were ready for me. Incredibly, Elaine and Ramsey had an awning which they had stretched between a couple of cars and sat me down in a little spot of calm, while everyone else was being buffeted by the wind. Can’t remember what I ate. I recollect the guys telling me I was looking great and was the only person who had been actually running coming in to Auchtertyre for some considerable time. They really worked hard at keeping me positive and it was working. Davie was wrapped up for bad weather and chomping at the bit to get going. So off we went. Elaine’s job was to let Majella and Emma know that I was on my way to Bridge of Orchy. They were driving from Glasgow to meet me there.

Auchtertyre to Bridge of Orchy 60miles Cut off 7:30pm Arrived 5:05pm (143rd)

Davie was brilliant. He asked me where I preferred him to run. I really didn’t know. We agreed that he would run just ahead of me but I would dictate the pace. I suspect his legs were fresh after this leg but his neck must’ve been killing him from constantly looking around to see where I was. He told me stories as we ran. He told me about the first time he ran the race back in the day before energy gels and sports science and support crews were used. He told a mate that he was going to run the West Highland Way and asked him if he’d meet him about half way with something to eat. His mate agreed and was dutifully standing waiting for him at the pre determined spot. Davie stopped, grateful to see him. He said “what have you got?” His mate gave him a Mars bar. Davie asked if he had water , to be met with the reply..”You never asked for water”!

95 miles on a Mars Bar….Legend.

He told me about the time he was running a 100 mile race and tore a leg muscle half way through. He finished the race and was promptly taken to hospital and placed on dialysis for kidney damage secondary to his injury. Every time I thought about walking I couldn’t bear the thought of letting this guy down, or ruining his CV.

He earned his money in other ways too. We left Auchtertyre and followed a couple of runners and turned right. After about 50 yards alarm bells were ringing for him as we realised we were going the wrong way. He quickly ran back and established the right way to go. We shouted out to the runners ahead and told them they were going he wrong way. They were very grateful, and as they were now behind me, I had another couple of scalps.

We got in to Bridge of Orchy in good time. It was getting cold and may have been lightly raining. I heard the familiar sound of Emma’s cowbell as she gave me a hug and she and Majella ran the last 100yards with me to the checkpoint. Tomato soup was the plan, and I had made up my mind to put the long skins on . I had always planned to do this as I thought it would help ease the leg aches. The weather was changing a bit and I worried the Rannoch Moor 11.5 mile leg was exposed to the elements. A good decision on reflection.

Ramsey handed me a coffee  and a lovely mug of Tomato soup. He warned me it was hot and to be careful. Majella warned me it was very hot. I told a large gulp and seconds later had a searing pain in my chest as it scalded my oesophagus on the way down. It was 3 days before I managed warm drinks again.

Majella insisted I take a woolly hat with me. I took it and stuffed it in my pocket as soon as I was out of site. I was getting updates on Davie and Ian. Davie was in pain but still moving and Ian was “flying” All good.

Bridge of Orchy to Glencoe Ski Centre 71 miles Cut off 12MN, Arrived 8:15pm (133rd)

Michael took over as support runner for the run in to Glen Coe. The climb out of Bridge of Orchy is a tough one especially as it’s hard to get the legs moving again. At the top before you get on to Rannoch Moor, there’s a guy called Murdo. He sits there under a big Saltire in all sorts of terrible weather. He’s there all day. He’s got a box of jelly beans and insists you take a couple whether you want one or not. He’s a mad crazy fool who sits on a hill in a storm and gives you jelly beans. And a bit of chat. And they call it Jelly Bean Hill. Calling it Jelly Baby hill will lead to immediate expulsion from the ultra running club and humiliation on social media…be warned. I must admit, I’m a jelly baby man, and I may have disappointed Murdo a little by my lack of enthusiasm. Michael and I moved on as the weather deteriorated. Murdo as far as I know could still be there.

I’d never run more than 55 miles before so at 60 odd, we were in unchartered territory. I was beginning to feel glad of the extra layer of clothing I had taken on at Bridge of Orchy. Michael I believe was in shorts!

I think we ran /walked most of the way to the Glencoe Ski Centre checkpoint. Michael was brilliant at keeping me going and we talked about all sorts of stuff. We seemed to be overtaking loads of folk now, and no one had passed us. The wind and the rain were now truly awful, and looking back Michael must have been freezing. 

The wind was swirling in all directions. There’s a funny story that Michael tells when I stopped at the side of the path for a pee. It’s funny how even when you’re in the middle of nowhere in a storm, you go to the side of the path to pee. I did just that. Michael was about 10 metres or so further down the path to my left. I’m not sure I can do this justice, but as I began to pee, the wind took my pee and blew it  back up the path to my right. It was then lifted into the air and as the wind changed,  the direction of flow also changed. Coming back towards me it flew in an arc over my head and down the path to my left. As I looked up, I could only marvel, and watch with pride as it took on a life of its own, and blew down the path towards Michael, who just in time realising what was about to befall him, leapt off the path to safety. It’s not easy being a support runner.

The descent into Glencoe was tricky as the path was now getting treacherous. Michael, despite the fact that he must have been freezing was keeping me going with chat, and a fair amount of encouragement about how well I was doing.

I checked in at Glencoe and the Marshall looked me up and down. She told me to go and get a change of clothes and take my time before heading out again. Couldn’t shake off the paranoia that they would remove me from the race if I showed any signs of weakness. I got to the car where Elaine and Ramsay were waiting. They were keen that I had a change of gear also, and I was forced to agree suddenly realising just how cold and wet I was. Unknown to me the crew were more worried about Michael and had insisted that he had a warm shower and dry gear asap.

Elaine started making coffee and sorting something to eat as I changed in the car. She delegated this job to Ramsay. Elaine and I are friends and also work colleagues but it’s a long career looking over at me in the office with haunting images of me in my undercrackers!

I have to thank Ramsay at this point for giving me his gloves as mine were soaking, and to Elaine for her waterproof trousers. I had bought a pair of waterproof trousers for the race. I bought them on line from Decathlon and I may have under estimated my size requirements. They would have strangled the budgie, if you get my drift. I don’t want to talk about food, but I became aware of an incredible smell in the car. Nope, not me. Elaine had made a Pot Noodle (chicken and mushroom). Best meal yet. 

I tried not to hang about too long in the car because as I’ve previously said it gets hard to get going again. And Davie was limbering up outside trying to stay warm. 

Glencoe Ski Centre to Kinlochleven 81 miles Cut off 5am, Arrived 12:35am (122nd)

It’s exactly a kilometre from the car down the hill to the road crossing. I don’t know what came over me but we were running from the off. Halfway down the hill, I saw Ian Rae with Frances. Not sure if he was just getting ready to leave but we exchanged a bit of chat as Davie and I ran down the hill. 

The team had made sure I had a change of gear and insisted I had the full waterproof gear on. I used to laugh at people who put a jacket on and went for a run. I don’t know if anyone remembers the scene from Friends when Joey wore all of Chandler’s clothes but that’s what I felt like.

The bit to the bottom of the Devil’s Staircase is deceptively difficult, and even a bit cruel. There’s a straight road that’ll get you there in 10 minutes but the WHW veers off up a long rocky incline and down again. Davie was keen to keep me running and I did my best. The Team decided they would meet me at the bottom of the Devil. I remember moaning to Elaine that I was roasting! Not sure I got much sympathy as the rest of the team were freezing!

The climb up to the top was where the nature of the race changed a bit. It was the beginning of the second night and light was starting to fade…as was something inside of me.  I started to feel sleepy. It was all I could do to keep my eyes open. All I wanted to do was sit down and have a wee sleep. I was too scared to show any kind of weakness to Davie who must have been suffering big time in the rapidly deteriorating light and weather conditions. I was moving so slowly, it must have been tough on him. The other thing that stopped me going for a nap was the thought of letting Elaine down. She had given up her weekend to do this for me and I couldn’t fail her.

On the way to the top, there’s an odd sign for a Tuck Shop. 100yards, then 50, and there it was. A small tent with provisions and a price list. Weird.

We eventually made it to the top. The terrain was not only difficult but waterlogged in places and we found ourselves often wading through fast moving water .Well let’s face it, everything was moving faster than me.

The headtorches were back on and I followed Davie as he picked out a path for me. I think this is where the hallucinations started. 

The weirdest one was when I saw a transit van apparently blocking my path. I knew it wasn’t really there but I could not make it disappear. I just kept my eyes on Davie, following his every footstep. On the descent into Kinlochleven we were running again. The man in the tree smoking a pipe seemed to be encouraging me in my efforts. I didn’t dare mention either of these to Davie. Kinlochleven was a welcome site. This had been the toughest section so far.

The checkpoint is in the community centre where I got weighed and was met by the team. The plan was for Macaroni Cheese courtesy of the microwave which was there. At this point I remembered we had planned some mashed potato but this was unfortunately on its way back to Glasgow with Ruth.

Didn’t want to hang around too much at this point. Ate some of the mac n cheese. Frances was also in the centre waiting for Ian to come in. He sat down beside me. It was good to see him. 

We again wished each other well, and I set off with Michael. I think he had learned his lesson and was very well wrapped up …no shorts this time.

We set off in fairly horrible weather for the climb up to the Larig Mor. Michael had taken over from Davie and I was following his every footstep. About 100yards into the climb, we appeared to surprise a couple of gents in the trees. One of them dressed for a night out appeared out of nowhere and Michael almost leapt out of his skin. He began to applaud us. He was quickly joined by a friend in running gear, who attempted to sell me what appeared to be a sachet of Tailwind. They vanished as quickly as they had appeared. I have no explanation for their appearance but I stress that Michael can confirm this episode…..unless we were both hallucinating!

The Larig Mor was tough. The weather was horrendous at this point and we were experiencing winds which we were later informed were gusting at 40km/h.

Michael was aware that I was struggling. He talked to me to try to keep me awake. He kept telling me how amazing I was doing and even convinced me that back to back 30 min miles was exceptional.

The hallucinations were back and at times I couldn’t see the path in front of me for various obstacles. Again I kept this from Michael. To try to keep me awake, he would set targets. He would insist that every 30 min or so I would eat something, usually a chocolate cream, or a piece of fudge.

I became aware of how much he was also struggling when he asked if he could have one of my sweets as his hands were too cold to open his pack. He later told me that he spent so much time and effort keeping an eye on me, that he forgot about himself.

We made it to Lundavra. It’s a fairly desolate place to have a checkpoint. Ramsay and Elaine were there with a coffee as usual. Davie had crashed out in the car. The team had decided that just Michael would accompany me over the final stretch. The original plan was for both support runners to do the last 6 miles or so, but the feeling was that Davie had done his bit. Unknown to me, Ramsay was prepared to walk/jog the last section also depending on how Michael and I looked at this point. Elaine was significantly reassured that we would make it and Ramsay was off the hook. I decided not to sit down this time. I was beginning to think that not only was I going to do this, but that a sub 30 hour time was in the bag. I gave Elaine the biggest of hugs and Ramsay a strong manly handshake and we set off up the hill. 

And for the first time in 88 miles, we used the F word. 

Fort William!

Kinlochleven to Fort William 95miles  Cut off 12MD, Arrived 6:05am (115th)

The first 3 miles or so from Lundavra are tricky with lots of hills. The Forrestry Commision has been very busy undertaking large areas of tree clearing. This made finding the path very difficult at times and difficult to negotiate. When we finally reached the fire road it’s an amazing feeling. I could see Fort William. I remember looking at the watch and thinking I was definitely going to do this. The last 4 miles are downhill as you know, and I had an hour to get in under 29 hours. Unfortunately, I fell asleep!

I was still moving, but had to be regularly reminded by Michael to wake up. As we got down to the Braveheart car park, Michael decided I was finishing in style. Eyes open and running. 

And his encouragement was amazing. He was constantly telling me how close the finish line was. He was running behind me, refusing to get up front with me. I remember Ruth and I doing this for Davie, so I understood what he was doing. With about 500 yards to go I could hear the familiar sound of a cowbell (I’m sure the locals really appreciated this at 6 am on a Sunday morning), as Emma and Majella came running towards me. I admit, I was struggling to hold it together at this point but just about managed. They told me to keep running and tucked in behind me with Michael. The next person I saw was Ruth, coming across to the finish line. She had gone home Saturday, threw up, slept for a few hours and then convinced Kevin to bring her back up. Sensational!

I could see the finish line and Elaine, Ramsay and Davie waiting for me.

I guess there were hugs and tears and stuff but to be honest it all gets a bit fuzzy at this point.

Disappointingly at this point the other face I saw was Davie Searil, who after a heroic effort, was forced to pull out of the race at Kinlochleven, after 81 miles.

He will also be back!

I finished in 29 hours and 5 minutes, 115th of 210 starters. 159 runners completed the race.

Ian Rae finished the race in 31hours and   46min for his 12th WHW finish. An incredible record.

Just for the record, the race was won by Rob Sinclair in a new course record of 13hours 41 minutes….unbelievable effort!

Since the race I’ve been asked if I would do it again.

Ask me in November😊

Jim